Most restaurants change their menu once or twice a year. We do it every six weeks, sometimes more. It started as a practical decision — we couldn't always get what we planned — and became a philosophy.

When you commit to seasonal cooking, you stop fighting the calendar. February is not the time for tomatoes. June is not the time for squash. The kitchen gets easier, not harder, when you work with what's actually good right now.

We work with four growers within 80 miles of Coldharbour Lane. Every six weeks, one of us visits each farm. What comes back in the van is what goes on the menu that fortnight. No more planning meetings arguing over dishes we can't make properly.

The result is food that tastes like somewhere. Not like everywhere, all the time.